The reality of the leather industry, and the next generation eco -leser



hello.

I am a member of RICCI EVERYDAY THE HILL (Daikanyama directly managed store).

Recently, the sharp winter air has been relaxed and the days have gradually been getting better! The other day, I forgot to wear a coat and went out, but I didn't feel so cold, but I was able to spend a day lightly!

I may be resistant to the cold because I try to see how long I can spend my knits and keep my coat in winter every winter. smile
Please do not imitate everyone! smile

By the way, this time, I would like to approach the actual situation of the leather industry and the next generation of eco -leather!

1. Environmental impact and health damage of leather products
2. About eco -leather
 2.1 Genuine leather made in consideration of the environment
 2.2 Vegan leather without animal properties
 2.3 Recycling leather
 


1. Environmental burden of leather products and health damage
It is a leather product with a strong image of a luxury product, but do you know how leather is produced?

Leather production uses a large amount of water and a lot of chemicals in the process of "name". According to the report of Water FootPrint Network17,000 liters per kg of leatherWater is used.

Water containing a lot of chemicals after use is often drained without being purified properly, and many health hazards have been reported in the production area.

In 2014, the reality is well described in 'The Toxic Price of Leather' announced by photo journalist Sean Gallagers.

The location is one of the largest leather products in India, the northern Camples of India. In 2013, the total exports of leather products have grown to $ 3.7 billion.

On the other hand,Only 20 % of the water drained in the factory is properly processed
Contaminated with chromium, arsenic, and lead, which contains high concentrations of chemicals, flows from 50 million litruped pool factories to the Ganges River every day.

With this water quality and air pollution, not only those who work in the Campour factory, but also local residents have a huge impact on skin diseases, pneumonia, asthma, and mental disorders.

The price does not stop health damage.
The land in the Campour region sucks contaminated water from the Ganges River, and roses cultivated in the land can no longer be produced.

Of the many sacrifice, 95%of leather products are exported to Western countries. The Indian government is now unable to regulate the leather industry, which has become a major source of income.

According to Human Right Watch, similar health damage has been seen at the Hazer Riverg factory in Bangladesh, and children's labor and women's wages are also concerned. Children and women in a weaker position are also added to men in addition to normal work, and are left for wages lower than men.

In this way, the leather industry is unlikely to be sustainable for the earth and humans. However, it is also true that exports to developed countries, including European and American countries, are one of the support of India and Bangladesh, and it may be difficult to review the working environment of such factories right away. Maybe.

2. About eco -leather
I was born with a problem with the actual situation of the leather industry.Eco -leatheris. What do you think of when you hear the word eco -leather?

In recent years, it has attracted attention as part of creating a sustainable environment, but it seems that there is no clear standard yet. This time, I would like to introduce it in three main categories!

2.1 Genuine leather made in consideration of the environment
In Japan, in 2006, the NPO Japan Reather Technology Association and the Japan Tanners Association announced the Japan Eco Leather Standards (JES). The following are determined as the standard for eco -leather.

・ Being natural leather
・ Do not use carcinogenic dye
・ Inspection of harmful chemical substances (formaldehyde, heavy metal, PCP, prohibited azo dye)
・ The odor is below the reference value
・ Leather made in a well -managed factory (manufactured in a factory where drainage and waste are properly managed)
・ Dyeing friction (difficulty in discoloration) is the standard value or higher

And leather products that have cleared the standard can use the Japan Eco Leather Standards Certification Label.

2.2 Vegan leather that does not use animal materials
Vegan leather has a synthetic fiber -based material and a similar leather made using natural fibers. This is also attracting attention from the viewpoint of animal welfare.

High brands also incorporate vegan leather one after another. Since its founding, Stella McCartney has been making products that do not use any animal materials, such as fur and feathers, as a vegetarian brand since its inception.
Since 2013, we have been using leather, a chemical fiber that can reduce the amount of oil required for production while being a chemical fiber. In addition, we use natural resources that can be played for more than 50%for bag coating to reduce environmental load. As a luxury brand, we are communicating new things that are sustainable and do not conduct animal experiments.

We are currently developing a vegan leather using various materials such as apple skin, pineapple leaves, cactus and mushrooms, as a natural material leather.

In the previous column, we introduced leather made from apple skin as a sustainable approach to the fashion industry. Please check this out for details.
Sustainable efforts in the fashion industry


2.3 Recycling leather
Finally, I will introduce the skin that appeared as a meat -meat by -product.

In Uganda society"Use things without help"Based on the spirit, it is customary to make the most of the lives that have been received, such as leather, bones, corners, etc., which appeared as by -products of meat, as well as accessories and sandals, as well as fertilizer and house reinforcement agents. Cowhorn is used for the following bags.


(Kikoi Koworn Bag)


Isn't this the idea of ​​being born because of an environment where things are not blessed with things.
For example, if you want parts to make accessories in Japan, you may think of a handicraft shop first. In a world full of things, "
Let's use cow bones! It should not be easy for the idea.

In Uganda, it is not unusual for Uganda to reuse a glass to make a glass, or use the tin that is no longer used for art, and it is not unusual to reuse what can be used as much as possible.

In this way, next -generation leather is born from various perspectives.
None of sustainability, animal welfare, and human rights are not perfect. Currently, livestock agriculture is said to have a responsibility of 14.5%to 18%of the global greenhouse gas emissions, but if you rely on synthetic substitutes to chemical fibers, it will burden the environment.
In the first place, there is even a debate about whether all genuine leather products distributed in the world are by -products of meat.

What we consumers can do is to check who the product, what material, and how they are made, and choose something that can be convinced.

It has become a very serious topic from the story of the cold and patience (laughs), but I hope you'll be interested. Also look forward to the next sustainable action for Everyone!


https://waterfootprint.org/media/downloads/Hoekstra-2010-TheEnvironmentalist_01March_Issue93_2.pdf

https://vimeo.com/88261827

https://www.hrw.org/ja/news/2012/10/09/247717

https://ecoleather.jlia.or.jp/kijun/index.html

https://www.stellamccartney.com/experience/jp/sustainability/themes/materials-and-innovation/vegetarian-leather/

 


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RICCI EVERYDAY THE HILL
4 minutes on foot from the Tokyu Toyoko Line Daikanyama Station Central ticket gate
24-1 Sarugaku-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo ROOB2 2nd floor C 03-6455-2446